Chemical peels: an update for 2026

By Tessa Taylor · Published 3 November 2026 · Last reviewed 3 November 2026

Treatment at our clinic: Chemical peels

Key points

• A chemical peel is an acid solution applied to the skin for a set time. It removes the outer layers so that new skin replaces them.¹
• Peels are grouped as light, medium or deep. The deeper the peel, the longer the healing and the higher the risk of scarring and colour change.^1,2
• Reviews support peels for mild to moderate acne, melasma (patchy brown pigmentation) and sun-damaged skin. Most of the trials are small and of low to moderate quality.^4,5,6
• Darker skin is more likely to develop dark patches after a peel, so the choice of peel and the preparation matter.^2,8
• Sun protection after a peel is essential.^2,11,12

A chemical peel uses an acid to remove the outer layers of skin so that new skin replaces them. It can help uneven pigmentation, acne and sun-damaged skin. The evidence is real but limited, and results vary from person to person.

How does a chemical peel work?

The peel solution causes a controlled injury to the outer layers of the skin. As it heals, the damaged surface cells are shed and replaced. Depth depends on the acid, its strength, the number of layers and your skin type.¹

Peels treat some types of acne and conditions that discolour the skin, such as age spots, melasma and freckles, as well as fine lines and sun-damaged skin.³ Deep lines and sagging skin are unlikely to respond to a peel.¹

What is the difference between light, medium and deep peels?

Light (superficial) peels work on the outer layer of skin only. Healing takes one to seven days, and the skin may be red.² Three to five light peels may be needed.²

Medium peels reach the layer below. The skin is red and swollen, and healing takes 7 to 14 days.^1,2 You need to stay out of the sun completely until the skin has healed.²

Deep peels reach further into the skin. They are done under general anaesthetic in a surgical setting, healing takes 14 to 21 days, and a person can have only one.² The chemical used for deep peels should not be used in people with heart rhythm problems or liver or kidney disease.¹ We do not offer deep peels.

Which acids are used, and what for?

• Glycolic acid is the most common alpha hydroxy acid (AHA).¹ A 2024 review found it the safest and most effective of the peels studied for melasma.⁵
• Salicylic acid dissolves in oil and is widely used for mild to moderate acne.¹
• Mandelic acid is a milder AHA. Healing is often three to five days, and the results are more subtle.¹ One trial of 50 people found a mandelic acid peel worked as well as a salicylic acid peel for mild to moderate acne, with fewer side effects.¹⁰
• Lactic acid is used for sun damage, surface pigmentation and fine lines.¹
• Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) is used at higher strengths for medium-depth peels. A review of five trials found TCA peels improved sun-damaged skin, and medium-depth TCA peels reduced wrinkles.⁶
• Jessner’s solution is a blend of ingredients, including salicylic and lactic acids, often used before a medium-depth peel to help it work evenly.¹

What can a peel help, and how strong is the evidence?

Acne. A systematic review of 12 randomised trials (387 people) found that the common peels worked about as well as each other for mild to moderate acne and were well tolerated. A glycolic acid peel worked better than a dummy treatment. The trials were of very low to moderate quality, so the authors could not say that any one peel is best.⁴

Melasma. A 2024 systematic review of 24 studies (1,075 people) found that peels helped melasma, with few side effects. The studies were too different to combine in one analysis.⁵

Sun damage and fine lines. The TCA review found improvement in sun-damaged skin, and patients were satisfied overall. It included only five trials, and the authors called for larger studies with longer follow-up.⁶

Dark marks after spots or inflammation. A 2024 review of treatments for these marks in darker skin found that peels were among the less effective options, and that no treatment worked reliably well.⁹

What has the research added recently?

A 2026 review of 38 studies (1,695 people) that compared peels with laser treatment directly. Both improved the skin. There was no clear difference for acne, acne scarring or sun-damaged skin. Lasers worked better for melasma and needed about two fewer sessions, but caused more pain, and possibly more redness, at the time. Dark patches after treatment were about as common with either.⁷ The authors advise choosing on the basis of skin type, condition and tolerance of side effects.⁷

What are the side effects?

Redness that can last for months, temporary darkening of the skin, lighter skin after medium and deep peels and, very rarely, scarring.² Deeper peels can also cause infection and can bring back cold sores in people who get them.¹ If you get cold sores, a doctor may prescribe a medicine to prevent a flare before a deeper peel.¹

Are peels suitable for darker skin?

Yes, with the right peel and preparation, but the risk of colour change is higher. In a study of 473 light peels in people with medium to dark skin, about 4 in 100 had a side effect and about 2 in 100 developed dark patches. All side effects had settled within eight months. The darkest skin type had about five times the odds of a side effect, though this estimate was uncertain, and side effects were least common in winter.⁸ The American Academy of Dermatology advises people with darker skin to see a practitioner experienced in peeling darker skin, because otherwise there is a risk of lasting pigment problems.² This is one reason the skin assessment comes first.

Who should not have a peel?

We do not peel skin:

• during pregnancy or breastfeeding
• with cold sores or infection in the area
• within six months of taking acne tablets prescribed by a doctor
• that is sunburnt, or if you have a sun holiday planned within two weeks.

Our six-month wait after acne tablets is a cautious rule. A 2017 expert review found too little evidence to support delaying a light peel in people taking or recently finishing these tablets.¹⁴

How do we prepare your skin?

Every peel starts with a skin assessment, so we can choose the peel and its strength for your skin type. To reduce the risk of side effects, we prepare your skin with home skincare for two to four weeks before the first peel.² A treatment takes 30 to 45 minutes, and most people feel tingling or warmth for a few minutes while the peel is on. A course is usually three to six peels, two to four weeks apart.

Our peels are salicylic or mandelic acid (£125), retinol (£130), pyruvic acid or Jessner’s (£150), eye and lip (£180) and TCA (£195). All our peels, including TCA, are superficial peels. The consultation and skin assessment is £50, paid when you book.

How do I protect my skin afterwards?

New skin is more easily damaged by the sun. In studies, four weeks of AHA use made skin redden more easily under ultraviolet light.¹¹

• Use a broad-spectrum sunscreen every day: SPF 30 or higher with a UVA rating of 4 or 5 stars as a minimum.^12,13 We recommend SPF 50.
• Reapply it, and use shade and a hat as well. No sunscreen gives complete protection.¹³
• Keep out of strong sun between 11am and 3pm.¹³
• After a medium peel, avoid the sun completely until the skin has healed.²
• Follow the written aftercare we give you. Make-up can usually be worn the next day.

Frequently asked questions

Does a peel hurt? Most people feel tingling or warmth for a few minutes. It settles once the peel is removed.

Will I visibly peel? With light peels, usually not, though healing can take up to a week.² Medium-depth peels take 7 to 14 days to heal.^1,2 Our peels are superficial; with our stronger peels, which we rarely use, flaking usually lasts one to two days. We will tell you which to expect before you book.

How many peels will I need? Usually three to six light peels, two to four weeks apart. Skin often looks brighter within a week, and results build over the course. Results vary from person to person.

Is a peel better than laser? Neither is better overall. A 2026 review found similar results for acne, acne scarring and sun damage, with lasers working better for melasma but causing more short-term pain, and possibly more redness.⁷

Is it right for you? Book a skin consultation. We will assess your skin, explain your options and give you a written plan with prices.

Sources

1. Soleymani T, Lanoue J, Rahman Z. A practical approach to chemical peels: a review of fundamentals and step-by-step algorithmic protocol for treatment. Journal of Clinical and Aesthetic Dermatology 2018;11(8):21-28.
2. American Academy of Dermatology. Chemical peels: FAQs.
3. American Academy of Dermatology. Chemical peels: overview.
4. Chen X, Wang S, Yang M, Li L. Chemical peels for acne vulgaris: a systematic review of randomised controlled trials. BMJ Open 2018;8(4):e019607.
5. Sarkar R, Lakhani R. Chemical peels for melasma: a systematic review. Dermatologic Surgery 2024;50(7):656-661.
6. Sitohang IBS, Legiawati L, Suseno LS, Safira FD. Trichloroacetic acid peeling for treating photoaging: a systematic review. Dermatology Research and Practice 2021;2021:3085670.
7. Karanasios G et al. Comparative efficacy and safety of laser versus chemical skin peeling in skin rejuvenation: a systematic review and meta-analysis. Plastic and Reconstructive Surgery 2026;158(2):263-272.
8. Vemula S et al. Assessing the safety of superficial chemical peels in darker skin: a retrospective study. Journal of the American Academy of Dermatology 2018;79(3):508-513.
9. Mar K et al. Treatment of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation in skin of colour: a systematic review. Journal of Cutaneous Medicine and Surgery 2024;28(5):473-480.
10. Dayal S, Kalra KD, Sahu P. Comparative study of efficacy and safety of 45% mandelic acid versus 30% salicylic acid peels in mild-to-moderate acne vulgaris. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology 2020;19(2):393-399.
11. US Food and Drug Administration. Alpha hydroxy acids (content current as of 22 November 2022).
12. NHS. Sunscreen and sun safety (reviewed 24 March 2026).
13. British Association of Dermatologists. Sun protection fact sheet (May 2024).
14. Spring LK et al. Isotretinoin and timing of procedural interventions: a systematic review with consensus recommendations. JAMA Dermatology 2017;153(8):802-809.